Skin Care Regime - Change is Coming

A Change is Gonna Come: Maybe?

Only halfway through this chapter we’ve talked a lot about skin care products; the good, the bad and the ugly. And yet, chances are, you’re still confused. That is because there is so much new technology out there, making so many new products, discoveries and even delivery systems – serums, potions, lotions, capsules, oils, etc. – that it’s hard to keep up. Well, in this chapter we can’t promise to categorize every skincare product – or even list every skincare product – but we can at least simplify the search by classifying these products into one of only two categories.
When it comes to skin care products, believe it or not, change will come. We are all looking for change; better skin tone, more radiance, fewer lines, less wrinkles – changes all.

The two categories of skin products are:

1. A rejuvenating change – Reparative skin care products: Some skincare products attack symptoms, i.e. fine lines, sagging skin, discoloration, spots, wrinkles, laxity, etc. So when you’re shopping for these lotions and potions, you’re actively looking for something to change.

2. Postponing aging change – Preventative skin care products: A second aspect of skincare is keeping what you’ve got; the luster of youth. Skin care systems that prevent wrinkles from becoming prominent and provide proper support for clean, healthy skin. Some skincare products are designed not so much to change your face for the better, but to prevent changes from happening for the worse.


Reparative Skin Care Regimen

The glow of youth is lost over the years as the outer layer of the epidermis becomes thick and opaque. Some skincare products actually do create change. For instance, they can help restore the luster of skin on the outside and create better skin health from the inside. These include:

• Neo Strata: Hydroxy acids are one example of skincare products that actually produce a direct, measurable change; in this case, younger, glowing skin. The purpose of hydroxy acid products is twofold: 1.) Produce a smoother texture and even color and 2.) Help in acne-prone skin. While there are many hydroxy acid companies, we use NeoStrata (glycolic based) because it was founded and managed by Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu, who are the world recognized experts in glycolic acid research.

• RevaléSkin ™ cream: Brought to market in 2007, RevaleSkin ™ cream is a relatively new product on the market is utilizing the benefits of caffeine to, as the company’s slogan says, “Wake up your skin.” RevaléSkin ™ cream, an anti-oxidant derived from coffee berry, provides the promise of reducing lines as a result of moderate sun damage. RevaleSkin™ is the first professional line of anti-aging skincare that the authors are aware of that contains Coffeeberry, a powerful natural antioxidant. And as an aside, recent studies have shown that coffee drinkers seem to have a lower instance of internal diseases.

• Triluma®: Triluma® is the most widely used prescription bleaching agent in the United States. It contains three prime ingredients – 4% hydroquinone, Tretinoin, and a topical steroid. This product is excellent for color irregularities seen in photodamaged skin especially in darker skin types.

• 302™ Protein Drops: A new topical technology began in the laboratories of pharmaceutical giant, Eli Lilly, in the early 1990s. The fruits of this research of more than a decade yielded a spin-off company of former Lilly scientists in 2004. 302™ Protein Drops are avocado derived and have the unique ability to thicken skin: both the dermis and the epidermis. We prescribe it to help reverse the skin thinning effects of age.

Preventative Aging Change

When it comes to skincare, our first hope is to make one’s skin look better. But just as important is our other wish: to postpone or at least delay the aging process. In this instance, we want to maintain our youthful appearance and prevent the aging process. The prevention of wrinkles is typically focused on the abnormalities occurring in the collagen component of the dermis (deeper layer of the skin). Other elements of the dermis include elastic fibers, Hyaluronic acids and blood vessels. These last three are targets of some products as well. Yet it is the collagen stimulation factors of cosmeceutical creams and lotions that have received the attention of skin care professional and the public.
Retin-A, an acne preparation developed in the late 1960’s, was shown to stimulate collagen to the point that biopsy studies showed youthful collagen being generously deposited over a period of months. Tretinoin, Retin-A’s active ingredient (also found in Renova) quickly became the gold standard for “collagen creams.” It held its throne until the early 1990’s, when several competitors arrived. Currently we recommend the following powerful preventative skin care lines that have been proven by outstanding clinical research.

• Neova® (Copper peptide): Since 1999, copper peptide creams have been considered undoubtedly the most effective wrinkle prevention creams available, having been shown in several independent medical school studies to stimulate collagen at almost twice the rate as Retin-A and Renova®.

• NIA 24™: Niacinamide based NIA 24™ which was tested at the National Cancer Institute may be able to reverse DNA damage. This product is very important for people with fair skin who have had sun damage – even severe damage. We have noticed with numerous individuals a softening of color irregularity and reduction in scaling, precancerous growths. Therefore, this product serves a unique purpose by perhaps reducing the prevalence of skin cancer in people who use it and at the same time reducing the effect of the sun, wrinkles.

• Antioxidants: One of the leading theories for preventing skin aging is based upon the concept that cells are attacked by harmful elements called free radicals; aging can be prevented by preventing free radical formation with antioxidants. Antioxidant (“free radical scavengers”) skin care products have increasingly assumed center stage. There are numerous antioxidants used in skin care products including vitamins (C & E), herbal and green tea extracts (polyphenols) and others. This list is likely to expand rapidly and may even have value in preventing skin cancer.

1. Replenix™: Replenix™ is our most commonly recommended antioxidant preventative skin care product. It contains green tea derived polyphenols, which are known to be strong anti-oxidants.

2. Citrix® - Vitamin C: Vitamin C is the most plentiful antioxidant in human skin and a potent anti-inflammatory agent. Our recommended Vitamin C based antioxidant skin care system is Citrix®. Citrix® is used more commonly in acne-prone and oily skin because it functions as an astringent in these skin types.

3. Persimmon leaf: Persimmon leaf, a naturally occurring plant, contains tannins (as found in wine) and has skin-lightening and collagen-stimulating capacities. We are looking at new and recent skincare developments in this area.

• Broad-spectrum sunscreens: Sunscreen application is perhaps the most important preventative measure for sun damage and aging. Please see the section below for a detailed discussion

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Some skincare products are designed not so much to change your face for the better, but to prevent changes from happening for the worse.
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